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餐桌的礼仪要重视,不要太重视。外国人吃饭不但要席正,而且挺直腰板,把食物送到嘴边。我们“食不厌精,脍不厌细”,要维持那种姿式便不容易。

我见过一位女士,她的嘴并不比一般人小多少,但是她喝汤的时候真能把上下唇撮成一颗樱桃那样大,然后以匙尖触到口边徐徐吮饮之。这和把整个调羹送到嘴里面去的人比较起来,又近于矫枉过正了。

人生贵适意,在环境许可的时候不妨稍为放肆一点。吃饭而能充分享受,没有什么太多礼法的约束,细嚼烂咽,或风卷残云,均无不可,吃的时候怡然自得,吃完之后抹抹嘴鼓腹而游,像这样的乐事并不常见。

我看见过两次真正痛快淋漓的吃,印象至今犹新。

一次在北京的“灶温”,那是一爿道地的北京小吃馆。棉帘启处,进来了一位赶车的,即是赶轿车的车夫,辫子盘在额上,衣襟掀起塞在褡布底下,大摇大摆,手里托着菜叶裹着的生猪肉一块,提着一根马兰系着的一撮韭黄,把食物往柜台上一拍:“掌柜的,烙一斤饼!再来一碗炖肉!”等一下,肉丝炒韭黄端上来了,两张家常饼一碗炖肉也端上来了。他把菜肴分为两份,一份倒在一张饼上,把饼一卷,比拳头要粗,两手扶着矗立在盘子上,张开血盆巨口,左一口,右一口,中间一口!不大的功夫,一张饼下肚,又一张也不见了,直吃得他青筋暴露满脸大汗,挺起腰身连打两个大饱嗝。

又一次,我在青岛寓所的后山坡上看见一群石匠在凿山造房,晌午歇工,有人送饭,打开笼屉热气腾腾,里面是半尺来长的发面蒸饺,工人蜂拥而上,每人拍拍手掌便抓起饺子来咬,饺子里面露出绿韭菜馅。又有人挑来一桶开水,上面漂着一个瓢,一个个红光满面围着桶舀水吃。这时候又有挑着大葱的小贩赶来兜售那像甘蔗一般粗细的大葱,登时又人手一截,像是饭后进水果一般。

上面这两个景象,我久久不能忘,他们都是自食其力的人,心里坦荡荡的,饥来吃饭,取其充腹,管什麽吃相!

梁实秋

​翻译

Pay attention to the etiquette of the dining table, not too much. Foreigners not only have to eat nicely, but also straighten their waists and bring food to their mouths. We "do not tire of fineness, but not fineness", it is not easy to maintain that posture.

I have seen a lady whose mouth is not much smaller than the average person, but when she is drinking soup, she can really make the upper and lower lips as big as a cherry, and then touch the mouth with the spoon tip to slowly suck it. Compared with the person who sent the entire spoon to his mouth, it was overkill.

Life is expensive and comfortable. When the environment permits, you may wish to be a bit pretentious. You can fully enjoy your meal without too much restraint of etiquette, chew your mouth, or eat fast, and you are all content. When you eat, you are content with yourself. After you eat, you wipe your mouth and swim in the belly. Such pleasures are not common.

I've seen it really twice, and the impression is still fresh

Once at the "Zhao Wen" in Beijing, it was a complete Beijing snack bar. At the opening of the cotton curtain, there was a driver who was driving the car, the driver driving the car, the braid was on the forehead, the placket was lifted and tucked under the rag, and it was shaken, holding a piece of raw pork wrapped in leaves A pinch of leeks tied with a maran, put the food on the counter: "The shopkeeper, brand a pound of cake! Come to a bowl of stew!" Wait a minute, the fried leeks with shredded pork come up, two homemade cakes The stew bowl was also served. He divides the dishes into two, one pours on a pie, one roll is thicker than his fist, his hands stand on the plate, open the giant mouth of the blood basin, the left mouth, the right mouth, the middle mouth ! Not much effort, one piece of cake and one piece of cake disappeared, until his face was covered with sweat, straightened his waist and let out two full hiccups

Once again, I saw a group of stone masons working on the hillside in the back of the Qingdao dwelling. They stopped work at noon. Someone delivered food and opened the steamer. The steamed dumplings were half a foot long, and the workers swarmed up. Everyone clapped their palms and grabbed the dumplings to bite, and the dumplings were filled with green leek filling. Someone picked up a bucket of boiling water with a scoop floating on it, and scooped water around the bucket to eat. At this time, a person with green onions came to sell the green onions as thick as sugar cane, and they ate it up like it was fruits after a meal.

have n’t forgotten the above two scenes for a long time. They are all self-reliant people. They are open-hearted. They do not care about what they look like when they eat.

♬♕𝒮𝑒𝓇𝒶𝓅𝒽𝒾𝓃𝒶♕♬

吃相(节选)

looks when eating (excerpt)

梁实秋

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餐桌的礼仪要重视,不要太重视。外国人吃饭不但要席正,而且挺直腰板,把食物送到嘴边。我们“食不厌精,脍不厌细”,要维持那种姿式便不容易。

Pay attention to the etiquette of the dining table, not too much. Foreigners not only have to eat nicely, but also straighten their waists and bring food to their mouths. We "do not tire of fineness, but not fineness", it is not easy to maintain that posture.

我见过一位女士,她的嘴并不比一般人小多少,但是她喝汤的时候真能把上下唇撮成一颗樱桃那样大,然后以匙尖触到口边徐徐吮饮之。这和把整个调羹送到嘴里面去的人比较起来,又近于矫枉过正了。

I have seen a lady whose mouth is not much smaller than the average person, but when she is drinking soup, she can really make the upper and lower lips as big as a cherry, and then touch the mouth with the spoon tip to slowly suck it. Compared with the person who sent the entire spoon to his mouth, it was overkill.

人生贵适意,在环境许可的时候不妨稍为放肆一点。吃饭而能充分享受,没有什么太多礼法的约束,细嚼烂咽,或风卷残云,均无不可,吃的时候怡然自得,吃完之后抹抹嘴鼓腹而游,像这样的乐事并不常见。

Life is expensive and comfortable. When the environment permits, you may wish to be a bit pretentious. You can fully enjoy your meal without too much restraint of etiquette, chew your mouth, or eat fast, and you are all content. When you eat, you are content with yourself. After you eat, you wipe your mouth and swim in the belly. Such pleasures are not common.

我看见过两次真正痛快淋漓的吃,印象至今犹新。

I've seen it really twice, and the impression is still fresh

一次在北京的“灶温”,那是一爿道地的北京小吃馆。棉帘启处,进来了一位赶车的,即是赶轿车的车夫,辫子盘在额上,衣襟掀起塞在褡布底下,大摇大摆,手里托着菜叶裹着的生猪肉一块,提着一根马兰系着的一撮韭黄,把食物往柜台上一拍:“掌柜的,烙一斤饼!再来一碗炖肉!”等一下,肉丝炒韭黄端上来了,两张家常饼一碗炖肉也端上来了。他把菜肴分为两份,一份倒在一张饼上,把饼一卷,比拳头要粗,两手扶着矗立在盘子上,张开血盆巨口,左一口,右一口,中间一口!不大的功夫,一张饼下肚,又一张也不见了,直吃得他青筋暴露满脸大汗,挺起腰身连打两个大饱嗝。

Once at the "Zhao Wen" in Beijing, it was a complete Beijing snack bar. At the opening of the cotton curtain, there was a driver who was driving the car, the driver driving the car, the braid was on the forehead, the placket was lifted and tucked under the rag, and it was shaken, holding a piece of raw pork wrapped in leaves A pinch of leeks tied with a maran, put the food on the counter: "The shopkeeper, brand a pound of cake! Come to a bowl of stew!" Wait a minute, the fried leeks with shredded pork come up, two homemade cakes The stew bowl was also served. He divides the dishes into two, one pours on a pie, one roll is thicker than his fist, his hands stand on the plate, open the giant mouth of the blood basin, the left mouth, the right mouth, the middle mouth ! Not much effort, one piece of cake and one piece of cake disappeared, until his face was covered with sweat, straightened his waist and let out two full hiccups

又一次,我在青岛寓所的后山坡上看见一群石匠在凿山造房,晌午歇工,有人送饭,打开笼屉热气腾腾,里面是半尺来长的发面蒸饺,工人蜂拥而上,每人拍拍手掌便抓起饺子来咬,饺子里面露出绿韭菜馅。又有人挑来一桶开水,上面漂着一个瓢,一个个红光满面围着桶舀水吃。这时候又有挑着大葱的小贩赶来兜售那像甘蔗一般粗细的大葱,登时又人手一截,像是饭后进水果一般。

Once again, I saw a group of stone masons working on the hillside in the back of the Qingdao dwelling. They stopped work at noon. Someone delivered food and opened the steamer. The steamed dumplings were half a foot long, and the workers swarmed up. Everyone clapped their palms and grabbed the dumplings to bite, and the dumplings were filled with green leek filling. Someone picked up a bucket of boiling water with a scoop floating on it, and scooped water around the bucket to eat. At this time, a person with green onions came to sell the green onions as thick as sugar cane, and they ate it up like it was fruits after a meal.

上面这两个景象,我久久不能忘,他们都是自食其力的人,心里坦荡荡的,饥来吃饭,取其充腹,管什麽吃相!

have n’t forgotten the above two scenes for a long time. They are all self-reliant people. They are open-hearted. They do not care about what they look like when they eat.

♬♕𝒮𝑒𝓇𝒶𝓅𝒽𝒾𝓃𝒶♕♬

20/5/20 20:22

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